KLAIPĖDA – the jewel in the amber crown

Klaipeda, the one and only Lithuanian coastline city, is called “the jewel in the amber crown,” a term that truly suits it, although to Lithuanians living inland the city is largely regarded as simply being the country’s port on the Baltic Sea.

Yet Klaipeda, which has a venerable history dating back to 1252, is far more than that. The sea, as a commercial port and as a replenishing source of food, sustains Klaipeda’s prosperity, but vistas of the sea add to the city’s beauty, and the scent of the sea that spices the air is a health-restoring elixir that quickens the step.

We fell in love with Klaipeda on a recent weekend, and we hope that what he found will inspire you to visit this modern, maritime, melting pot of over 150,000 inhabitants. It’s a destination that you are certain to enjoy.

The 300-kilometer, divided motorway from Vilnius to Klaipėda must be the easiest superhighway to drive in all of Europe, with very little traffic on the four lanes. So, if motoring from Vilnius, simply turn on your cruise control and enjoy a relaxing, three-hour trip through scenic rural views and undulating forest vistas on your way west. For those without wheels, there’s a deluxe, express bus that connects the two cities, and should you live abroad, you can fly from a number of European cities direct to Palanga, just thirty kilometers from Klaipėda.

It quickly struck us that the look of Klaipėda differs from the inland Lithuanian cities, as it shows the influence of Germanic architecture of the Hanseatic period, with many lattice-work buildings that reflect its Prussian past. Klaipėda was formerly called Memel, which is also the German name for the Nemunas River. In contrast, Klaipeda -- its present Lithuanian name -- reflects what the terrain of this city probably looked like on its founding some 760 years ago, for Klaipeda derives from the word “klaipė pėdas,” meaning “marshy footprint.”

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Souvenir sellers at the Theatre Square.

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Ann of Tharau

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Restaurants at the Theatre Square

On our first venture after arrival we strolled through Klaipeda’s Old Town, starting from Theatre Square that today very much functions as a market for local souvenirs and more. In the middle of this square stands a sculpture of Ann of Tharau, dedicated to the German poet Simon Dach, who was born and lived in Klaipėda and who fell deeply in love with this girl he was never to marry. The name of this square comes from the Drama Theatre to one side. Since the 18^th century this theatre has continually played an important role in the cultural life of Klaipėda; in the 19^th century its façade was reconstructed in a neo-classic style. Surrounding this square are fine restaurants, lively nightclubs, a casino, and a very delightful jazz club.

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Nearby Aukštoji Street was our next destination; here we discovered the oldest buildings of the city, dating back to the 18^th century. Some had latticework facades while others were of brick and stucco. Interspersed between these buildings are narrow alleyways with attractive courtyards, art galleries, cafés, and small boutiques. Browsing through these labyrinths in search of interesting objects of art could consume your day, and if that isn’t enough to keep the visitor occupied, the adjacent outdoor market provides another venue for lively bargaining. When shopping, think amber, keeping in mind that Klaipėda is considered to be the amber capital!

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A stroll along the Dane River

The old bridge, in Jugend Style

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The new bridge, built in Soviet times

Klaipeda’s Old Town connects to its New Town by two bridges over the river Dane. One unremarkable bridge was built in dreary Soviet times whereas the older, more interesting bridge has a beautiful metal framework in Jugend-style with metal lamps that are reflected in the river’s calm flow. On the Old Town side, at the river’s edge, are a series of restored warehouses, containing attractive cafés and shops, that end at the ferryboat quay. Other Klaipeda attractions include a spanking new cruise ship terminal and an old castle museum that displays artifacts from the 16^th to 18^th centuries, among them some armor made for a possible Swedish attack!

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The ferry to the Curonian Spit takes but a few minutes; it is a “must-do” trip for every visitor. While crossing you can best see the endless row of dockside cranes and ships being built or repaired. This ferry gets you to the famous Maritime Museum (normally also to the Aquarium and Dolphinarium (that now is closed for renovation until 2012). You can also view some forty species of fish from Lithuanian rivers and lakes, along with more exotic examples of aquatic life -- tropical fish, seals, and penguins. This is the sole maritime museum on the eastern coast of the Baltic Sea and it provides great fun for youngsters and the young at heart!

While you are here, do not miss driving out to Melnragė Pier for an awesome view. From this vantage point, you can see the enormous port area and the magnificent sea in panorama. It’s especiallty impressive at evening when the orange sun sinks beneath the jade-colored waves. Should you happen to arrive when the sea is stormy, a walk on the shore right after the storm may be rewarded by finding pieces of amber – Lithuania’s gold – dislodged from depths of the sea.

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