THE VOICE OF INTERNATIONAL LITHUANIA
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Archive for February, 2012
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Our recommended architect-tour through Vilnius VILNIUS ARCHITECTURE
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Maybe you just asked yourself: What on earth has such an image, the one above, to do with architecture? Let me admit, that when I began my studies to become an architect, 36 years ago, I also believed that architecture was about buildings and structures.
But, after I received my Norwegian master degree in architecture, and also had studied architectural psychology in France, it began to dawn on me that architecture is mostly about something else. I started realising that architects are creating constructions, but, more importantly, they are designing frameworks and environments for genuine human life and activities - being it at work, with family, during leisure time, travelling, at a restaurant table, or while simply seeking inspiration in some sort of environment.
The cover photo shows real life in one of Vilnius’ many hidden courtyards. You will understand the magnificent architecture of Vilnius Old Town only if you also visit these courtyards and the many ancient, vaulted cellars.
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The mother art is architecture. Without an architecture of our own we have no soul of our own civilization.
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From the architectural point of view, Vilnius is a unique city of world format. Unfortunately, there are not many reasons to mention the city’s new suburbs with modern architecture; they are mediocre. Vilnius Old Town is the only outstanding jewel in the crown. But what a jewel! It is here you should come to observe the amazingly strong expressions of a whole people's ancient soul; regardless of nationality, religion or cultural background.
It is when you come here you will fully understand why Vilnius once was given names like the 'New Babylon', ‘Jerusalem of the North’, ‘the world’s most Italian city outside Italy’ and ‘the most Baroque city north of the Alps’. It is here you fully can understand what the terms multiculturalism and multi-nationalism really implied in ancient Vilnius. It was to this very place architects and builders from Italy and other Mediterranean countries came to develop the international Vilnius nearly 700 years ago, along with experts from Central Europe. The city’s huge Jewish community also played an immensely important role.
When it comes to ancient architectural planning and roots, Vilnius is probably the world’s most international city.
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HOLISTIC THINKING AND PLANNING
Architecture is a mirror of the development level and maturity for any nation. Today's best example of precisely this is the new Dubai architecture that is created to tell a story about wealth and prosperity. Similarly, the architecture of Vilnius Old Town tells us about wisdom and multiculturalism in this country during hundreds of years. Vilnius reflects European styles, be it from the Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque or Classicism time periods because Lithuania's former leaders knew how to seek advice and expert assistance from outside. Vilnius of those days was fully on par with cities closer to main stream Europe. But the styles represent only one side of the case. Equally important is the fact that the then leaders, city planners and architects followed holistic planning ideals. The areas between the buildings were as important as the buildings themselves and the human dimension was given crucial importance. To pave the way for good and interactive human life and expression was a most important clue in all planning and development. Old Vilnius was a good and vibrant city to live in.
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Outdoor rooms A little flippant answer maybe, but it is my belief that good architecture always should be based on the human dimension and the view that buildings are parts of a greater whole and context where interiors, exteriors and the outdoor spaces between the houses are playing together in harmony and mutual affinity. Vilnius Old Town is a shining example of a holistic approach in planning. The buildings are often to compare with napoleon cakes where the basement is usually from 1400-1600's, while the floors above are of increasingly younger 'vintage'. Still, the buildings appear as genuinely well designed and planned. We see clear signs of famous international styles, but the end result is still something exceptional: A genuine Vilnius style! The streets, squares and courtyards are planned in the same holistic manner. One minute you find yourself in a narrow alley, so narrow that even daylight has trouble reaching down to the cobbles. Then suddenly the street opens into a small square. You hear music and feel the good smell of food from one of the small sidewalk cafés. Other streets are wider. Widest of all is Didzioji gatvė (meaning the big street), which finally ends up in the City Hall Square (Rotušės aikštė) in front of the city's former council-house. In Vilnius Old Town you will find joy and adventures, whether you're indoors or outdoors, in a narrow street or in an open space. A complete, excellent feeling of harmony. I wish the newer parts of the town had been planned similarly well, with the human dimension in mind and with harmonious integration of outdoor space and building. Unfortunately, it's mostly the car that rules over the outdoor spaces in the city’s new districts. |
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MY ARCHITECTURE ROUTE THROUGH VILNIUS
This is my personal architecture route through Vilnius. It follows far from historical order. It focuses not only on buildings, but is all along also touching a bit of general history and partly political events. For, as I said already at the very beginning, architecture is so much more than just structures. Architecture is art, frames for human life, politics, economics, prestige, happiness, sorrow - for better or worse. Or as a friend of mine tends to ask: ‘Do you know the difference between a doctor and an architect?’ The answer is that doctors can always bury their mistakes…
Vilnius, however, is a fully ambulatory 'patient'. Let me show you.
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1. The new skyscraper district of Vilnius |
12. Church of the Holy Spirit |
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2. River Neris and Stalinist architecture |
13. The Jewish Quarter |
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3. Lukiškės Square, where Lenin’s statue once stood |
14. Stikliu gatve (Glassblower Street) |
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4. The KGB Palace (today’s KGB Museum) |
15. Rotušes Square – the old City Hall |
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5. Gediminas Avenue – Lithuania’s parade street |
16. St. Casimir’s Church |
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6. Vilnius Cathedral and the Cathedral Square |
17. Gates of Dawn |
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7. The Vilnius Castles – Gediminas Tower |
18. Užupis |
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8. The Royal Palace |
19. St. Anne’s Church – Bernadine Church |
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9. The Presidential Palace |
20. Piliės gatve (Tower Street) |
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10. Vilnius University |
21. Sts. Peter and Paul’s Church |
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11. Sts Johns’ Church |
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1. VILNIUS’ NEW SKYSCRAPER DISTRICT
To the right in the picture above you can see the Reval Hotel Lietuva. The hotel was, with its 22 floors, until a few years ago Lithuania's only skyscraper. I lived there for half a year, in 1991. Where today's skyscraper district is located (to the left), there was just a dusty strip of land with lots of kiosks of good old-fashioned Soviet brand. Today's skyscrapers are taller and more modern. Glass and steel have in the 2000s made their triumphant entrance to Vilnius and Lithuania.
The new buildings are not bad. They are actually among the better in terms of recent, modern architecture in Lithuania. The two buildings I think most of, are; a) The Europa Tower, and b) Swedbank's new headquarters, both designed by architect Audrius Ambrasas. These two buildings have, in addition to a lot of glass and metal, also added a little warmer colours, which means a lot to an otherwise cold district. The shopping centre within the Europa Tower is also, in my opinion, the best in the whole of Lithuania in terms of architecture. Simple and understandable, yet elegant in its expression.
But, as the critic I always tend to be, let me be allowed to present three query target categories for this new glass-and-steel complex that has been raised over the past 10 years, only a stone's throw from the Vilnius Old Town:
1) Where is the holistic thinking behind this new district?
It seems that the Vilnius Municipality has not done much more than dividing up a large land area into land plots where each developer has been left free to build without regard to public facilities, outdoor space or a common architectural concept.
2) Why has one not assumed a design concept related to the centuries-old architecture of Vilnius Old Town?
The skyscraper district in Vilnius differs little from mediocre areas of similar character in the west, while the city’s own proud history of architecture seems to be completely forgotten.
3) Why is it that asphalt and cars have been allowed to completely dominate all outdoor areas?
The only attempt made to create an outdoor area seems to exist between the Europa Tower and the new City Hall building. But also this yard chemically free of greenery and life-giving activities, with the result that it is used very little by people. The new skyscraper city is also isolated from good contact with the Vilnius centre by a busy street. Why not put a lid on it, so that traffic could be hidden under the earth surface and human life could flourish on top of the lid?
PS: The new skyscraper district of Vilnius is located on the so-called right bank of the Neris River that runs through and forms the city of Vilnius. Now we will cross ‘the white bridge’ and move into the city centre.
2. RIVER NERIS – AND A TASTE OF STALINIST ARCHITECTURE
The Neris River flows slowly and beautifully through Vilnius. Unfortunately, the river banks are rarely used for human activities. Here you see no dynamic waterfront projects, outdoor restaurants or full set riverboats. This is not Prague, Paris or Rome. But there is so much more that could be done to make this beautiful river to a far more active element of city life here, and I hope one day we get a city planner who sees some of the many opportunities Neris provides the city that through 700 years has been growing large along its proud historic riverbanks.
Stalinist Architecture, also referred to as the Stalinist Gothic, or Socialist Classicism, is a term given to architecture of the Soviet Union between 1933 and 1955, when Nikita Khrushchev condemned ‘excesses’ of the past decades and disbanded the Soviet Academy of Architecture.
But while buildings from the Stalin period remain as very solid and thoughtful stylish monumental buildings, in Vilnius and other cities that belonged or were forced to obey Soviet rule, the buildings erected during Khrushchev’s time in the Kremlin, and later, have been left standing as uninteresting and weak symbols of a recession which in reality defined the Soviet Union from the moment Stalin died in 1953.
A few Stalinist buildings were erected in Vilnius after the war. You see one of them to the right on the picture above. Church symbolism is obvious even here, although this is just an ordinary apartment complex. Still, this building is the beginning of our ‘evil axes’ part of the route, leading us from the Stalin building to what 20 years ago was called the Lenin Square and the KGB Palace where unbelievable gruesome treatments took place - of thousands of Lithuanians who dared to resist their unwelcome rulers after WWII.
3. LUKIŠKĖS SQUARE – THE KGB PALACE
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Lukiškės Square has been Lithuania’s symbol of terror since the 1800s, when public executions of insurgents took place here. This is also the place where hundreds of opponents of the Soviet Union were interrogated, tortured and executed during the years 1944–1956 in the infamous KGB Palace, facing the square (ref above picture).
The square was reconstructed according to the design of V. Mikučianis in 1949–1952. During the Soviet era, the square was renamed Lenin Square and a statue of Lenin was built in the middle of it in 1953. The statue, which used to be the largest of its kind in the Lithuanian SSR, was removed in 1991, after the restoration of independence of Lithuania. Gathered crowds celebrated the fall of the statue; its upper part was lifted using a crane and broke off at the lower legs attached to the pedestal. The reassembled Lenin statue is now on display in Grūtas Park near Druskininkai in southern Lithuania.
Today, the evil is gone. Children are having fun at the site that during two centuries represented death and destruction for Lithuania. The statue of Lenin, that stood here during the period 1953 – 1991, is also gone. Forever.
It is estimated that 22 000 Lithuanians and 70 000 KGB and Red Army soldiers were killed during the time of the post war guerrilla wars in this country between 1944 and 1956. When will we see a monument here, at the Lukiškės Square, to honour the many brave Lithuanians who were killed by the evil forces for the sake of their beloved homeland?
3. THE KGB MUSEUM
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Set up in the former KGB Palace, the museum is the only one of its kind in the European Union. For Lithuanians, this building symbolises the 50-year-long Soviet occupation. During World War II it was the site of Gestapo headquarters and of the KGB later. Between 1940 and 1991 people who resisted the soviet occupants were arrested, killed or deported to Siberia. You will see a lot of the names of anti-Soviet resistance fighters carved into the stone walls of the building.
When you enter the building you feel more like whispering instead of talking as the gruesome reality of the past exhibited over a few floors is often too hard to handle. The building of the museum is intact as it was after the KGB left the premises in 1991. Amongst many other exhibited items you will see the authentically furnished rooms and KGB equipment that was used for the secret listening of private conversations and many more.
On the ground floor of the museum the authentic photographs of the partisans, original documents, personal belongings are displayed. The photographs depict the life of partisans, who were struggling to re-establish Lithuania’s independence. It is truly sad to look at the immortalised faces, as many of them were so young, barely 18 years old. The courage, sacrifice and love for their country of those young people is truly moving. You start understanding that Lithuanians, even though a small nation, were gallant and dignified people.
The exposition on the first floor displays dramatic black and white photographs depicting and awful working and living conditions of the people sent to the hard labour camps. The scenes look so grim with wiry fences and armed guards. Among the prisoners there was a great number of priests and women, arrested for publishing underground anti-Soviet papers. I couldn’t believe it when I saw that many of them had to wear signs on them that read: ‘Extremely dangerous criminal.’ Clothes and footwear of the prisoners and some personal items like hand made books are on display.
The basement prison is the most sobering part of the building. Here a lot of prisoners were brutally killed in the execution chamber for participation in the anti-Soviet resistance.
When you enter the prison, there are two about 1.6-square-metre dark cells called boxes, where prisoners were kept while the duty officer processed their documents. It’s sickening how small the cells were where you can hardly sit or stand. Among other cells you can see solitary confinement rooms which were used to break down the prisoners and make them confess. Prisoners had to stand in the ice-cold water or to balance on a small platform. Every time they got tired they fell down into the water.
The horrific padded cell sends chills down your spine. The walls are padded and soundproofed, made to absorb the cries and shouts for help. The straitjacket on the back wall was used for those who resisted or were demented from torture.
The execution chamber is the grimmest place in the museum. On display there is material, which shows the procedures of sentencing people to death and the inhuman treatment of dead bodies. Under a glass floor some personal belongings of the victims are displayed: shoes, buttons, glasses and engagement rings.
4. GEDIMINAS AVENUE
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The Gediminas Avenue (Lithuanian: Gedimino prospektas) is the main street of Vilnius, where most of the governmental institutions of Lithuania are concentrated, including the government, parliament, Constitutional Court and ministries. It is also the place of cultural institutions such as Lithuanian National Drama Theatre, Bank of Lithuania, Lithuanian Academy of Music and Theatre and Martynas Mažvydas National Library.
Nowadays it is also a popular shopping and dining street. It is partially a pedestrian street in the evenings when the traffic is prohibited.
Named after the Grand Duke of Lithuania Gediminas, the street terminates at the Žvėrynas Bridge over the Neris River near the Seimas (Parliament) Palace on one end and at the Cathedral Square and Vilnius Castle Complex on the other, passing the Lukiškės Square. It connects the Old Town with Žvėrynas.
The street, started built in 1836, was initially known as St. George Avenue, Mickiewicz Street (Polish: ulica Mickiewicza), when Vilnius was under Polish rule (1922–1939) and Adolf Hitler Street during the Nazi Germany occupation. At the beginning of the Soviet occupation in 1940 it was called Stalin Avenue, later renamed to Lenin Avenue. The avenue carries its present name from 1939 to 1940 and since 1989.
A portion of the avenue from the Vilnius Cathedral to Municipality Square was thoroughly reconstructed before the celebration of 750th anniversary of King Mindaugas' coronation in 2003. The reconstructions included building an underground parking facility – the first such in Lithuania - under the Municipality Square and renovation of all kinds of pipelines and communication cables under the street. Over 100 new trees were planted. During the excavations a few archaeological findings were found and are now on display in the parking garage. The reconstruction was completed in 2009.
5. VILNIUS CATHEDRAL – THE CATHEDRAL SQUARE
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The Cathedral of Vilnius is the main Cathedral of Lithuania (Roman Catholic). It is situated in Vilnius Old Town, just off of Cathedral Square. It is the heart of Lithuania's Catholic spiritual life.
The coronations of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania took place within its confines. Inside its crypts and catacombs, many famous people, among them Vytautas the Great (1430), his wife Anna (1418), his brother Sigismund (1440), cousin Švitrigaila (1452), Saint Casimir(1484), Alexander Jagiellon (1506), two wives of Sigismund II Augustus: Elisabeth of Habsburg (1545) and Barbara Radziwiłł (1551), as well as others, are interred.
Inside, there are more than forty works of art dating from the 16th through 19th centuries; including frescoes and paintings of various sizes. During the restoration of the Cathedral, the altars of a presumed pagan temple and the original floor, laid during the reign of King Mindaugas, were uncovered. In addition, the remains of the cathedral built in 1387 were also located. A fresco dating from the end of the 14th century, the oldest known fresco in Lithuania was found on the wall of one of the cathedral's underground chapels.
It is believed that in pre-Christian times, the Baltic pagan god Perkūnas (god of thunder) was worshiped at this location. The Lithuanian King Mindaugas built the original cathedral in 1251 after his conversion to Christianity. Remains of the archaic quadratic church with three naves and massive buttresses have been discovered beneath the later layers in the late 20th century. After Mindaugas's death in 1263, it again became a place of pagan worship.
In 1387, the year in which Lithuania was officially converted to Christianity, a second Gothic style Cathedral with five chapels was built. The Cathedral burnt down in 1419. During the preparation for his coronation as King of Lithuania, Vytautas built a significantly larger Gothic Cathedral in its place; the Cathedral had three naves and four circular towers at its corners. Flemish traveller Guillebert de Lannoy noticed its similarity to the Frauenburg Cathedral.
The walls and pillars of this cathedral have survived to this day. In 1522, the Cathedral was renovated, and the bell tower was built on top of the Lower Castle defensive tower. In 1529, Sigismund Augustus, was crowned Grand Duke of Lithuania in the Cathedral. After the fire of 1530, it was rebuilt again and between 1534 - 1557 more chapels and the crypts were added. The Cathedral acquired architectural features associated with the Renaissance.
After the fire of 1610, it was rebuilt again, and the two front towers were added. The Cathedral was damaged during the war of 1655. It was renovated and decorated several more times.
Between 1623 - 1636, at the initiative of Sigismund III Vasa, the Baroque style Saint Casimir chapel by royal architect Constantino Tencalla was built of Swedish sandstone. Its interior was reconstructed in 1691-1692 and decorated with frescoes by Michelangelo Palloni, the altar and stuccowork by Pietro Perti.
In 1769, the southern tower built during the reconstruction of 1666 collapsed, destroying the vaults of the neighbouring chapel, killing six people. After the damage, Bishop of Vilnius Ignacy Jakub Massalski ordered the reconstruction of the Cathedral. The works started in 1779 and were completed in 1783, and the interior was completed in 1801. The Cathedral was reconstructed to its present appearance according to the design of Laurynas Gucevičius in the neoclassical style; the church acquired its strict quadrangular shape and the plan inherent to local public buildings. The main facade was adorned with sculptures of the Four Evangelists by Italian sculptor Tommaso Righi. Some scholars point to the architectural resemblance of the cathedral to the works of Andrea Palladio or see the influence of Gucevičius's tutor Claude Nicolas Ledoux. The influence of the Palladian architecture is evident in side facades of the building. The lack of 'purity' of the Classical architecture due to incorporation of Baroque style sculptures and other elements was later criticised by academical architects, notably Karol Podczaszyński.
6. THE LOWER CASTLE – GEDIMINAS TOWER
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The Vilnius Castle Complex is a group of cultural and historic structures on the left bank of the Neris River, near its confluence with the Vilnia River in Vilnius. The buildings, which evolved between the 10th and 18th centuries, were one of Lithuania's major defensive structures.
The complex consisted of three castles: the Upper, the Lower, and the Crooked. The Crooked Castle was burned down by the Teutonic Knights in 1390 and was never rebuilt. The Vilnius Castles were attacked several times by the Teutonic Order after 1390, but they did not succeed in taking the entire complex. Its complete capture occurred for the first time during the 1655 Battle of Vilnius. Soon afterwards, the severely damaged castles lost their importance, and many buildings were abandoned. During the Tsarist annexation, several historic buildings were demolished; many more were damaged during the fortress construction in the 19th century.
Today, the remaining Gediminas Tower (above right) is a major symbol of the city of Vilnius and of the nation itself. Annually, on January 1, the Lithuanian tricolour is hosted on Gediminas Tower to commemorate Flag Day. The complex is part of the National Museum of Lithuania (above left), one of the largest museums in the country.
8. THE ROYAL PALACE
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The Royal Palace of Lithuania (Lithuanian: Valdovų rūmai) was a palace built in the 15th century for the rulers of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. The Royal Palace in the Lower Castle evolved over the years and prospered during the 16th and mid-17th centuries. For four centuries the Palace was the political, administrative and cultural centre of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. It was demolished in 1801. A new palace has been under construction since 2002 on the site of the original building. It is expected to be completed in 2010.
9. THE PRESIDENTIAL PALACE
The Presidential Palace (Lithuanian: Prezidentūra), located in Vilnius Old Town, is the official seat of the President of Lithuania.
The Palace traces its history back to the 14th century, when Jogaila, the Grand Duke of Lithuania, issued an edict donating land in the city to the Vilnius Diocese, for this reason the palace is sometimes referred to as the Bishops' Palace. Construction of the Palace took place in the late 14th century under the auspices of the first Bishop of Vilnius, Andrzej Wasilko, and over succeeding generations, the building was gradually enlarged and renovated. During the Renaissance the Palace was once again renovated, and parks and gardens surrounding the building were expanded.
As the 18th century unfolded, a number of dramatic events in the Palace's history took place: the last Bishop of Vilnius lived in the Palace, Lithuania was annexed by the Russian Empire, and the building itself was badly damaged by two major fires in 1737 and 1748. The Palace was reconstructed in 1750 under the supervision of the architect Laurynas Gucevičius. After its reconstruction the Palace was used as a residence for Emperors, Kings and noblemen. During 1796, Tsar Paul I lived at the Palace. During the course of the 19th century the Palace served as a residence for several Imperial Russian governors, such as Mikhail Muravyov, nicknamed "The Hangman". It was also visited by the future King of France, Louis XVIII in 1804.
In 1812, both the Russian Tsar Alexander I and the French Emperor Napoleon used the Palace as their residence. During Napoleon’s invasion of Russia, he organized military operations and Lithuanian army units from this Palace, including five regiments of infantry, four cavalry regiments, and the National Guard of Vilnius. He received Lithuanian noblemen, newly appointed officials of the administration, and other dignitaries in this Palace as well. After Napoleon's defeat in 1812, the Palace was used for ceremonial proposes; it was here that then-general Mikhail Kutuzov was awarded Russia's highest military award - the Order of St. George. During 1824-1834, the Palace was reconstructed by the prominent St. Petersburg architect Vasily Stasov in the Empire style, under supervision of Karol Podczaszyński. Stasov's reconstruction of the Palace has remained to this day.
After Lithuania regained its independence in 1918, the Palace housed the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the ELTA news agency until it ended up in Poland in 1920. It was restored in the 1930s by Stefan Narębski. After the Second World War, the Palace served as the Military Officers' Centre; later it housed various Lithuanian artists. The Palace was gradually adapted for use as a presidential residence, and since 1997 it has served as the official and since 1997 it has served as the official office of the President of Lithuania. A flag displaying the coat of arms of the President (top image) is hoisted when the President is present in the Palace or in the city.
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10. VILNIUS UNIVERSITY
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Vilnius University (Lithuanian: Vilniaus Universitetas, formerly known as Vilnius State University, earlier - Stefan Batory University and before that Almae Academia et Universitas Vilnensis Societatis Jesu), is one of the oldest universities in both the Baltic states and Europe. It is also the oldest and largest university in Lithuania. In 1568, the Lithuanian nobility asked the Jesuits to create an institution of higher learning either in Vilnius or Kaunas. The following year Walerian Protasewicz, the bishop of Vilnius, purchased several buildings in the city centre and established the Vilnian Academy (Almae Academia et Universitas Vilnensis Societatis Jesu). Initially, the Academy had three divisions: humanities, philosophy, and theology. The curriculum at the College and later at the Academy was taught in Latin. At the beginning of 17th century there are records about special groups that taught Lithuanian speaking students Latin, most probably using Konstantinas Sirvydas' compiled dictionary. The first students were enrolled into the Academy in 1570. A library at the college was established in the same year, and Sigismund II Augustus donated 2500 books to the new college. In its first year of existence the college enrolled 160 students. |
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On April 1, 1579, Stefan Batory King of Poland and Grand Duke of Lithuania, upgraded the academy and granted it equal status with the Jagiellonian University of Kraków, creating the Almae Academia et Universitas Vilnensis Societatis Jesu. His edict was approved by Pope Gregory XIII's bull of October 30, 1579. The first rector of the Academy was Piotr Skarga. He invited many scientists from various parts of Europe and expanded the library, with the sponsorship of many notable persons: Sigismund II Augustus, Bishop Walerian Protasewicz, and the Marshal of the Crown, Kazimierz Lew Sapieha. Lithuanians at the time comprised about one third of the students (in 1568 there were circa 700 students); others were Germans, Poles, Swedes, and even Hungarians.
In 1575, Duke Mikołaj Krzysztof Radziwiłł and Elżbieta Ogińska sponsored a printing house for the academy, one of the first in the region. The printing house issued books in Latin and Polish and the first surviving book in Lithuanian printed in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania was in 1595. It was entitled Kathechismas, arba Mokslas kiekvienam krikščioniui privalus, and was authored by Mikalojus Daukša.
The Academy's growth continued until the 17th century. The following era, known as The Deluge, led to a dramatic drop in both the number of students that matriculated, and in the quality of its programs. In the middle of the 18th century, educational authorities tried to restore the Academy. This led to the foundation of the first observatory in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, (the fourth such professional facility in Europe), in 1753, by Tomasz Żebrowski. The Commission of National Education (Komisja Edukacji Narodowej), the world's first ministry of education, took control of the Academy in 1773, and transformed it into a modern University. Thanks to the Rector of the Academy, Marcin Poczobutt-Odlanicki, the Academy was granted the status of Principal School (Szkoła Główna) in 1783. The Commission, the secular authority governing the academy after the dissolution of the Jesuitorder, drew up a new statute. The school was named Academia et Universitas Vilnensis.
11. STS JOHNS’ CHURCH
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This church was built as a Gothic chapel in 1387. In 1570, Lithuania’s Grand Duke Sigismund Augustus gave the chapel as a gift to the Jesuit Brothers who by then were developing the nearby college that later became Vilnius University. The Brothers immediately built a bell tower that still today is the highest in Vilnius. The tower stood ready in 1571. It was in a direct decree from the Pope that the Gothic chapel was expanded to a glorious house of God and given the name Sts. Johns' Church. It has happened only twice in Christianity’s history that a church has been named after both John the Baptist and the Apostle John. First time was when the Basilica of St. John Lateran, the first among the four major basilicas of Rome was built by Constantine the Great in the 4th century. This church is also the cathedral of the bishop of Rome, the Pope, and is thus known as Omnium urbis et orbis Ecclesiarum Mater et Caput: "Cathedral of Rome and of the World." Despite a number of restorations the church remains Gothic. Since 1773 it has been the official church of Vilnius University, located within the university territory and also sharing ‘The Great Courtyard’ with the university (picture). |
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12. CHURCH OF THE HOLY SPIRIT
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The Holy Spirit Church is a late Baroque church. It is also called the Dominican Church as it long belonged to a Dominican monastery. The church has one of the oldest organs in Lithuania. It is today a Polish Catholic church, and all masses are held in Polish language. The first church in this place was built in 1323. Later, Grand Duke Vytautas ordered the construction of a Gothic styled Holy Spirit Church here. In the 16th century the church was rebuilt and the Dominican Monastery settled in the nearby buildings. In the 17th century the church was twice on fire and rebuilt again. In 1844, the monastery was closed and its buildings occupied by different institutions and inhabitants, including a prison. Pope John Paul II visited the church in 1993 during his visit to Lithuania. The Holy Spirit Church has an amazing underground maze of catacombs, as it for decades was a burial place where plenty of plague and war victims were buried. Their coffins and remains are still here, in the church’s cellar. In 1943 students of Vilnius University tried to clean and explore the catacombs. They also guided excursions to catacombs. There are many stories about the ghosts living in the catacombs; the most outstanding is the one about the ghost of a knight who was buried alive here.
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13. THE JEWISH QUARTER
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The pre-World War II numbers are staggering: Vilnius' Jewish population was nearly 100,000, about forty-five percent of the city's total. The country was strewn with some two hundred Jewish communities sustaining the lives and livelihoods of about 240,000 people. Vilnius had 105 synagogues and prayer houses. There were six daily Jewish newspapers. Yiddish was the language of choice. Indeed, the city was aptly named The Jerusalem of Lithuania.
The post-war numbers are horrifying: Only 24,000 Jews survived. Or, shall it be said, that 90 percent of the Jews had been murdered. Vilnius' Jewish population today is 5,000, a mere five percent of what it once was. The country is home to but 6,500 Jews, some 200 of whom are Holocaust survivors. Most of the two hundred pre-war communities were decimated, wiped off the map entirely. There is only one Jewish newspaper. Few people speak Yiddish anymore. Today, there remains only one synagogue in Vilnius (we will later this year make a special VilNews issue about the Litvaks – the Lithuanian Jews – and their exceptional role in Lithuania’s history since the 1300s).
14. STIKLIU GATVE (GLASSBLOWERS’ STREET)
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The narrow Stiklių gatvė (Glassblowers’ Street) in the Old Town of Vilnius began its history in the 15th century, when merchants and craftsmen, invited by the Lithuanian Grand Dukes, started their businesses here. Many of the settlers were Jews who had immigrated from Germany, and Stiklių gatvė became in many ways the most central Jewish street in Vilnius. The construction of most of the current buildings at the street was started at the end of the 15th century by different merchants, both for living and trading purposes. Over the centuries, many of the original Gothic cellars changed owners and got new constructions above street level. There were shops, taverns and beer-houses. In 1972, the still existing hunters' restaurant, Lokys, was opened here. This restaurant, in Medieval style, has an atmosphere of a real medieval castle – medieval castle – and when the abundant food and drinks take the edge off the guests' thirst and hunger, you really start understanding what Vilnius is all about. In the 1990s, the famous Stikliai Hotel and Restaurants started their activities here. Today, this is the most luxurious hotel in Lithuania, and the restaurant as well as the cellar beer pub is truly worth a visit! Stikliu gatve is one of the most interesting and unusual places in the Lithuanian capital. The once vibrant Jewish flavour is unfortunately and sadly gone due the horrors of Holocaust in this country, but I am still asking you all to join me for a stroll down this amazing, narrow, winding street.
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15. ROTUŠĖS AIKŠTĖ – THE OLD TOWN HALL SQUARE
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The Old Town Hall in Vilnius was mentioned for the first time in 1432. Initially it was a Gothic style building, and has since been reconstructed many times. The current Vilnius Town Hall was rebuilt in neoclassical style according to the design by Laurynas Gucevičius in 1799. It has remained unchanged since then. Its Gothic cellars have been preserved and may be visited. Nowadays it is used for representational purposes as well as during the visits of foreign state officials and rulers, including George W. Bush and Queen Elisabeth II.
The Town Hall Square (Lithuanian: Rotušės aikštė) is a traditional centre of trade and events in Vilnius. Major annual fairs, such as the Kaziukas Fair, are held in this square, the main Christmas tree is decorated here, various concerts and other attractions are organised as well as celebrations of important dates of the state.
16. ST. CASIMIR’S CHURCH
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The beautiful St. Casimir's Church is one of the most interesting churches that you can visit in the capital city of Lithuania. Touted as one of the main attractions in Vilnius, the church got its name from the patron saint of the country, Prince Casimir Jagiellon. Having been founded by the Jesuits in the year 1604, the church is known to be the oldest Baroque-style religious structure in the city. It is as frequently visited as the other splendid churches in Vilnius. St. Casimir's Church, however venerated as it now is, was not spared by abuse and persecution in the past. The church was made into a grain store in the year 1812 by the troops of Napoleon. Some twenty years after this, it was converted by the Russians into an Orthodox Church and into a cathedral in 1864. The Germans made it into a Protestant temple between the years 1915 and 1917. However, it was the Soviets who made more shocking use of the church. They converted it into an Atheist Museum. St. Casimir's church is one of the finest Baroque churches in Vilnius, although it also displays Gothic and Renaissance elements. It was built according to the style of Il Gesu church in Rome, although it differs in having two main frontal towers. The church is constructed in the form of a Latin cross. Where the central nave and transept meet, a majestic cupola of forty meters rises. Seventeen meters in diameter, it is topped on the outside by the crown of the grand duke of Lithuania. The central nave and transept are twenty-five meters wide. On the inside naves are placed six unconnected chapels.
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17. THE GATES OF DAWN
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The Aušros vartai (Gates of Dawn) are one of the main symbols of Vilnius. Pilgrims from the entire world come here to see the dark face of the Vilnius Madonna, hoping for consolation from the Mother of Compassion. The painting is the only one of miraculous images in Lithuania that is so widely renowned for its healing power. The Holy Virgin is considered the patron of Lithuania and a symbol of harmony. People of four nationalities and two religions worship her – Lithuanians, Poles, Byelorussians, Russians, Catholics and Orthodox. Residents of Vilnius began to worship the painting in 17th century during the war with the Russians. The saying is that an image of God’s Mother from the Gates of Dawn would appear in the sky at night.
The chapel is located above the former gate. St Teresa’s Church and the Holy Spirit Orthodox Monastery are nearby.
18. UŽUPIS
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Užupis is one of the oldest districts of Vilnius, mentioned in historical sources as far back as the 16th century. Once it was called the “salt road” to Polock. In olden times it was the suburb where the poor and mainly craftsmen, lived. There were many mills and at one time it was even known as a brothel district. The district contains the Bernadine Cemetery, one of the oldest in Vilnius. Most of the district's Jewish population vanished during the Holocaust, and later even the old Jewish Cemetery would be destroyed by the Soviets. The houses left empty by the Holocaust were occupied by marginal elements of society, the homeless, and prostitutes. Until Lithuania's declaration of independence in 1990, it was one of the most neglected areas in the city, containing many run-down houses, many without utilities. Today the district houses art galleries, artists' workshops, and popular cafés. On April Fools Day in 1997, the district declared itself an independent republic (The Republic of Užupis), replete with an army of 12 personnel. Užupis is a unique republic. A colourful and alive island, separated from the city by the Vilnia River that once gave name to the city itself. Užupis is a recognised district for artists and has won the name of the most mysterious and romantic district of Vilnius. Užupis is the artists’ republic, which has its own constitution, national anthem, calendar and map. The district is often compared to Montmartre in Paris due to its bohemian atmosphere. |
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19. ST. ANNE’S CHURCH – THE BERNARDINE CHURCH
The Church of St. Francis and St. Bernardine (right) is one of the largest gothic sacral buildings in Vilnius.
It composes a unique architectural ensemble with St. Anne's Church (left).
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One of the most impressive architectural masterpieces of the Vilnius Old Town is Saint Anne’s Church, built in the late 15th – early 16th centuries. This is the most outstanding and enchanting Late Gothic building in Lithuania. The Saints Francis and Bernardine Church, next door, commonly referred to as the Bernardine Church, was built at the end of the 15th century. It is one of the largest Gothic sacred buildings in Lithuania.
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In 1469, the Bernardine monks that had recently settled in Vilnius built a wooden church that was later replaced by the brick one. At the beginning of the 16th century, the church was totally reconstructed. Originally, the church was a part of the city's defensive wall, and this, in fact, explains its modest decor. Since then the loopholes under the roof in the northern facade have remained. After numerous renovations in the 16-17th centuries the church acquired renaissance and baroque style elements. The baroque decor of the altars, pulpit, organ choir and tombstones softens the strictness of the gothic lines. During the Soviet occupation the church was handed over to the Art Institute. In 1994, it was returned to the brethren of St. Francis.
Now the Bernardine Church is being restored and soon it will acquire its former beauty. But even now the splendour interior of the church enchants the visitors. The dominants of the interior are fourteen rococo style altars decorated with beautiful wooden sculptures. The church features the oldest known crucifix in Lithuania, which dates back to the 15th century. The unique mural painting decorating the walls of the naves dates back to the 16th century and combines renaissance and gothic elements. The scenes on biblical themes are decorated with inscriptions in gothic character and floral ornaments. The church is famous for the plenty of the ornate tombstones. Among them one should mention marble tombstones of Stanislaus Radziwill in the north nave (1618-1623) and Piotr Wiesiolowski in the south nave (1634).
The Bernardine monastery that is situated near the church is the oldest brick building of the entire complex. It was constructed at the end of the 15th century. The monastery soon became one of the cultural centres of the medieval Lithuania. It was famous for its rich library, containing unique manuscripts and books. In 1864, the monastery was closed and the building was reequipped to soldier's barracks. In 1919, it was handed over to the art faculty of the university, later - to the Art Institute. Now the cloister houses the Vilnius Academy of Art.
St. Anne’s Church is constructed from 33 different kinds of clay bricks presented an astounding example of the inventiveness and boldness of the master masons of the time. Legend has it that Napoleon Bonaparte was enchanted by the church’s beauty, and he wished that he could magically transport it to Paris in the palm of his hand.
20. PILIES GATVĖ (CASTLE STREET)
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Pilies gatvė (literally, "Castle Street") is the main street in the Old Town of Vilnius, running from Cathedral Square to the Town Hall Square. Out of several locations across Vilnius used by market traders to sell the wares of folk artists, Pilies Street is the most popular. It has a natural advantage over the Town Hall Square as the street is generally busy and less likely to be interrupted by the political or cultural events commonly held at the Town Hall. Many people visit the street to buy gifts at Christmas or before going abroad to visit friends. The market is also popular with souvenir hunters. Souvenir shops offer amberware and amber jewellery as well as linen clothes. The street is also known for the Kaziukas Fair, when folk artists from all four corners of Lithuania gather here to display and sell their latest merchandise. Speaking of festivals, if something is being celebrated in Vilnius, Pilies Street is usually an excellent vantage point – most processions will make their way through here at some point. This is true whatever the festival – be it Christmas, Easter, the day of Restoration of Independence, or just a spontaneous celebration following a major win for the Lithuanian basketball team. The headquarters of Vilnius University are located between Pilies Street and University Street, (Lithuanian: Universiteto gatvė). The House of the Signatories where the Declaration of Independence was signed on 16 February 1918 is also located on this street.
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21. STS. PETER AND PAUL’S CHURCH
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St. Peter and St. Paul's Church (Lithuanian: Šv. apaštalų Petro ir Povilo bažnyčia) is a Roman Catholic church located in the Antakalnis neighbourhood of the city. Its interior has masterful compositions of stucco mouldings by Giovanni Pietro Perti and ornamentation by Giovanni Maria Galli of Milan, and is considered a Lithuanian Baroque masterpiece. The church is a basilica built on a traditional cross plan with a lantern dome allowing extra light into its white interior. The freestanding columns of the main facade were used for the first time in Lithuanian ecclesiastical architecture. The inscription surrounding the base of the dome (Tu es Petrus et supra hanc petram edificabo ecclesiam meam et portae inferi non praevale buntadversus eam) is the same as that of St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican. The church is decorated with over 2000 religious depictions. The frescos are attributed to Johann Gotthard Berchhoff. The female heads opposite the St. Augustine Chapel represent two sister nations: Poland and Lithuania. The church was commissioned in 1668 by Michael Casimir Pac, Grand hetman of the Lithuanian armies. |
Well, dear VilNews readers,
I hope you have been able to follow me on this rather long stroll through
the Vilnius architecture. If not, you have at least a text to lean back on
the day when you yourself will be visited by people who want to know
more about the irresistible architecture here in Vilnius.
Warm Regards,
Aage Myhre
Editor-in-Chief
M.Sc. of Architecture
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- Posted by - (0) Comment
“DOUBLE GENOCIDE”
Three major flaws mar
Mr. Cohen’s attempt
Boris Bakunas
By: Dr. Boris Vytautas Bakunas, Ph.D.
"Mr. Cohen may appear to make a sincere effort to present a balanced view in his article; however, three major flaws mar his attempt. First, the article is based on the logical fallacy of false dichotomy, also known as the either-or fallacy. Second, the scales of balance in Mr. Cohen’s presentation waver as a result of his failure to present all the relevant facts related to the establishment of The Museum of Genocide Victims in Vilnius. Finally, Mr. Cohen obfuscates two crucial terms: Holocaust and genocide.
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Vilnius catches and changes your soul!
- Posted by - (4) Comment
- Daniil Granin, Russian writer |
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ABOVE: My first project in Vilnius Old Town was to transform an old building that was one of the most dilapidated ones, almost in ruins, into a modern office building. Lithuanian building products were then still of Soviet quality, so I had to import windows, doors and most other products from Norway. Still I believe this building came to play an important role as an example for later renovation projects by local architects, developers and construction companies. But the building also taught me something about Vilnius and Lithuania, i.e. through the fragments of ancient paint we found on the building façades; layer upon layer of colour and treatment materials applied over hundreds of years. For me this was concrete evidences that gave me a deeper impression and understanding of the multifaceted history this country has been through. It was as if the paint layers spoke to me from Lithuania's past centuries of successes and failures. |
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Dear VilNews readers, I am very pleased with the good response and comments we have received from many of you, and I hope you all will continue to comment and engage in the Lithuanian related topics we are bringing up! Many of you reading this today are new readers of VilNews. You are all warmly welcome to our group of readers, and I am happy to see that we are getting new subscribers every day now! I started to work as a journalist 35 years ago, when I began writing for one of Norway's leading newspapers, and I have since covered quite a few different fields such as politics, foreign affairs and architecture. But an architect I really am, educated at the Norwegian Technical University and with additional education in 'architectural psychology' in Strasbourg, France. One of my main interests has been the preservation of older buildings and urban environments, and I am particularly focusing on a holistic approach to architecture, this that the space between the buildings, the streets and squares, is emphasized and thoroughly planned as much as the buildings themselves. And I am always concerned about the human dimension; that there should be created and maintained environments in which humans and human activities are given priority over cars and asphalt. It was therefore no wonder that I fell in love with Vilnius Old Town immediately when I first came here in 1990, and I give Russian writer Daniil Granin absolutely right when he claims that Vilnius 'catches and changes your soul'. This city has soul and a completely unique atmosphere that few other places I've been to in my life can compete with. Vilnius has been given many nicknames over the centuries, such as ' The world's most Italian town outside Italy' and 'The world's most Baroque city north of the Alps'. When Napoleon Bonaparte in June 1812 came here on route to Moscow, he experienced a vibrant urban environment where he saw something he had never seen in mainstream Europe; a city where Jews and people of other nationalities lived side by side in peaceful coexistence. He soon also became aware that this city was in many respects the world centre of Jewish intellectualism, and it was him who from then of began to refer to Vilnius as 'Jerusalem of the North'.
Capitals around our world have their special characteristics that are often the main symbols of the countries they represent. Paris has its Eiffel Tower. London has its bridges. Rome has the Colosseum. Washington has the White House, and Berlin its Brandenburg Gate. Vilnius has its wonderful Old Town that once was among the world's greatest symbol of tolerance and peaceful coexistence for and between many different nationalities and cultures. This is the identity our dear Lithuania again should develp. Vilnius Old Town is ready and renovated to show the path. Aage Myhre |
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When Napoleon Bonaparte in June 1812 came to Vilnius on his way to Moscow, he experienced a vibrant urban environment where he saw something he had never seen in mainstream Europe; a city where Jews and people of other nationalities lived side by side in peaceful coexistence.
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A world superpower for 300 years
- Posted by - (7) Comment
The Grand Duchy of Lithuania was a European state from the 12th /13th century until 1569 and then as a constituent part of Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth until 1791. It was founded by the Lithuanians, one of the polytheistic Baltic tribes from Aukštaitija. The duchy later expanded to include large portions of the former Kievan Rus' and other Slavic lands, covering the territory of present-day Belarus, Latvia, Lithuania, Ukraine, and parts of Estonia, Moldova,Poland and Russia. At its greatest extent in the 15th century, it was the largest state in Europe. It was a multi-ethnic and multi-confessional state with great diversity in languages, religion, and cultural heritage.
“Lithuania was a superpower much longer than USA has been“. This is how I often tease my American friends arriving in Vilnius. But the teasing is in fact not so far away from reality, as the Grand Duchy of Lithuania (GDL) over 300 years, was one of the biggest nations of the world, stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea.
It all started with King Mindaugas (1203-1263), Lithuania‘s first and only king, who in 1236 defeated the Livonian Brothers of the Sword and united the different Lithuanian tribes under his reign. But the real expansion began when Grand Duke Gediminas came to power in 1316, and started a new dynasty of leaders. Gediminas employed several forms of statesmanship to expand and strengthen the GDL. He invited members of religious orders to come to the Grand Duchy, announced his loyalty to the Pope and to his neighbouring Catholic countries and made political allies with dukes in Russia as well as with the Poles through marriage to women in his family. Gediminas’ political skills are evident in a series of letters written to Rome and nearby cities. He mentions the Franciscan and Dominican monks who had come to the GDL by invitation and were given the right to preach, baptise and perform other religious services. He also included an open invitation to artisans and farmers to come and live in the GDL, promising support and reduced taxes.
Along with his other political accomplishments, Gediminas established Vilnius as the capital of the GDL. During his rule, he managed to establish a stable state comprised of peoples of varied ethnicity and religious persuasions. When his rule ended in 1341, he left the GDL viable and strong.
Under Vytautas the Great, Lithuania‘s military and economy grew stronger, and he expanded the Grand Duchy‘s frontiers to the Black Sea.
The Grand Duchy was at its peak in the 15th Century. It was in the centre of Europe and comprised of the entire territories of contemporary Lithuania, Belarus, Ukraine, part of Poland and stretched from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea. Successfully ruled by a dynastic line of dukes, the GDL developed a highly advanced system of state administration to stave off invading Crusaders longer than any other central European power. Its statesmen conducted effective foreign policy and military campaigns and created a multi-ethnic state. Though officially ending in 1795, the history of the GDL continues to influence modern-day nationalist thinking in the region. Lithuania, but also Belarus and Ukraine point back to the days when they were part of the thriving GDL as proof of their cultural and political strength, clearly distinguishing them from Russia.
Aage Myhre
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Kugelis recipe
- Posted by - (26) Comment
Photo by Yours For Good Fermentables.com
I’m very excited to share this recipe with you because
KUGELIS IS MY ABSOLUTE FAVOURITE :o)
Once again I have been elected to share a traditional Lithuanian recipe with you due to the fact that I am so very “culinary challenged”. Please remember that I need to be supervised when I’m in the kitchen so that I don’t hurt myself. But the powers to be of VilNews feel that I’m the best person to share these recipes since if a person with my limited cooking skills can cook these tasty meals than it shows to every one how easy they are to prepare.
Kugelis is quite easy to make. The only thing a little confusing about making kugelis is what recipe to use. All recipes for traditional foods of all nationalities have their own little twists to them based on the recipe from one family to another. Recipes for traditional Lithuanian meals are the same.
However for kugelis??????
I think that kugelis has more variations for recipes than any other Lithuanian dish. So in formulating this recipe I took about six different recipes and averaged them out and gave ranges for some ingredients and options for the milk. All said and done, if you made kugelis from the six different recipes I used, in the end they would all be about the same and it would probably be difficult to taste or see the difference if you put a piece of each of the six on a plate.
So – Don’t worry about it. Just have fun!!!
What you will need
10 lbs./4.5 kg. potatoes
1-1 ½ lbs./.5-.7 kg. bacon or pork or chicken
3-6 eggs
2 large onions
1 can evaporated milk or 12 oz. scalded milk
Salt and pepper
Potato preparation
Peel and grate all of the potatoes.
If you do not have an Electric Potato Grater,
use the side of the hand grater with the smallest holes.
The consistency is important. It should be like apple sauce.
Unlike the potatoes for cepelinai, you can use a much wider variety of potatoes for kugelis
since the baking process will darken them and give a bit of a yellow tint.
Again we would not recommend using red potatoes though.
And yes by all means Sig and Rima you can use the purple potatoes!!!
You will have purple kugelis but I’m sure it will taste great and
after all there’s a first time for everything.
Just as we mentioned with the recipe for Cepelinai, the most time consuming part of making Kugelis is grating the potatoes. This is why many people don’t make this easy to make dish very often. This is also why many people got the Lithuanian Electric Potato Grater. It will grate 10 lbs. of potatoes in a matter of minutes. It is available through the Lithuanian E-Store www.balticvalue.com
They have it in both the 110 Volt and 220 Volt models and they ship world wide.
Drain the excess water from the grated potatoes.
The best way is to place grated potatoes in a doubled cheese cloth and squeeze.
A less strenuous way is to put the grated potatoes in a colander and let the liquid seep out.
Important – Drain the liquid into a pan.
When finished pour off the liquid and put the potato starch back into the grated potatoes.
Meat preparation
Cut the bacon into thin strips.
Fry up the bacon and finely chopped onion together.
DO NOT drain out the grease.
The bacon grease is an integral part of the consistency of the cooked Kugelis.
A note about the meat
You can use unsmoked or smoked bacon, it’s all a matter of personal taste.
I don’t think I would recommend bacon cured in maple syrup though.
You can but the packaged and precut bacon or you can buy the “slab bacon”.
The “slab bacon” is what is called šoninė in Lithuania – Pork belly
While using bacon is what some would say is the “traditional” meat, I can honestly tell you that I have had Kugelis made with about any variety of pork cut you can think of. I’ve even had Kugelis made with chicken or turkey. All variations were delicious.
Mixing all the ingredients
Pour the milk into the drained grated potatoes and mix well.
Add the fried bacon and onions into the potatoes (grease and all) and mix well.
Beat the eggs and add into the potato mixture.
Some people recommend that you beat each egg and add it separately???
Add salt and pepper to taste.
Once all the ingredients have been blended well,
Pour mixture into a medium depth, greased backing pan/dish.
Baking
Be sure the oven has been preheated.
Again this is a source of discussion.
Some say;
Bake at 425F/220C for 15 minutes then at 350F/180C for 1 hour
Bake at 425F/220C for 15 minutes then at 325F/165C for 1 hour
Bake at 350F/180C for 2 hours
Bake at 350/180C for 1 ½ hours
The best way is to cook it at whatever temperature you think will work for however long you think is enough – When the top is a golden brown and there is a darker crust around the edges it is DONE.
Remove from the oven and let sit about 20 minutes and then cut and serve.
Sour Cream is a great topping.
Here are a few things to consider.
Maybe using 10 lbs./4.5 kg. of potatoes is too much for the meal you are planning so you may want to use 5 lbs./2.5 kg. of Potatoes. Now this may sound kind of strange but every one I have talked to has said that the amounts of all the other ingredients stay the same – You just use less potatoes???
Even if you cook up a big batch of Kugelis and there is some left over don’t worry
BECAUSE
Fry up some of the left over Kugelis in a pan with some eggs
And this makes one fine breakfast.
In fact this is why I always make a bigger batch than I need just so that I can have Kugelis for breakfast the next day. In spite of what you may have read about “traditional Lithuanian breakfasts” in books, I can tell you that in Lithuania very often what you had for dinner last night is what you have for breakfast (and lunch) the next day.
Skanaus
Vin Karnila
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Labas Aage Myhre,
I learned of your website through the British-Lithuanian Society, of which I have been a sustaining member for four years. The B-LS does a wonderful job of promoting Lithuanian social and cultural events in the United Kingdom, and helps to promote initiatives in Lietuva through The Tiltas Trust, a registered charity. For details, go to www.britishlithuaniansociety.org.uk.
I am very proud to tell you that the best man I ever knew was my maternal grandfather, who was Lithuanian. The spelling of the family name changes from document to document, but his father's surname was Markauskus (Markowskas? Markauskus?) and his mother's maiden name was Janusraitus (again, different spellings). There is NOTHING that would make me happier than to be able to trace my roots within Lietuva. If you - or anyone you know - can help me, I would be most grateful. Do you know which part of the country people with these names came from originally? You don't know how much this means to me.
My great grandparents left Lietuva in 1897, moved to Liverpool for four years and then went to Pittston, Pennsylvania, where my grandfather was born. He worked as a coal miner, but after an accident in the mine, decided to try his luck at securing a job at Henry Ford's factory in Michigan. Sadly, after a long time waiting in the hiring queue, he never got the job. So, he knocked on the door of another great American, and this time he got the job. The man who hired him was Thomas Edison. He raised his family in the Vailsburg section of Newark, New Jersey, and when he retired from the Edison Company he presented me with his retirement medal. I was his first born grandchild, and he raised me as if I were his son, which isn't surprising considering that he, a real "soldier's soldier" had daughters but no sons.
My grandfather gave me everything that money cannot buy. In return, I hope to honour his memory by doing whatever I can that will help Lietuva. My resources are limited - I do not have "extra" money, but I can make my contribution in other ways.
I have visited Lietuva twice and am happy to report that never once was I swindled by a taxi driver or a rogue trader. All the people were honest to a fault. Service in the restaurants is very slow (a holdover from Soviet times?), but everything else in the country is wonderful.
Lietuva is the best country in all the world for four reasons: The best food (cepelinai), the best beer (Svyturys), the best basketball players (Sabonis, Jasekevicius, etc.), and - most obviously - the most beautiful and charming women!!!
Please keep me on your mailing list. Your website is excellent!
Yours sincerely,
Brian Holmes, United Kingdom
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Vilnius wins with cozy atmosphere
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Recently old factory places were resourcefully adapted into clubs.
One of the most famous is "Loftas", where the Parov Stelar
Band (above) is among the many visiting artists.
Despite the clutter of local and international cultural happenings, openings, exhibitions and art workshops, when you think that 24 hours is too short to attend all events, Vilnius still has a nice and rich night life. Not only can you taste the best Japanese, Chinese, Indian and Mexican cuisines but you may enjoy gourmanic kitchens such as Argentinean, Italian, Spanish, Russian, Polynesian, Georgian, Armenian, Thai, German or French.
To try the "cepelinai" or "kugelis" of a Lithuanian national kitchen is a must. Since Lithuanian national dishes are quite heavy, digestive work can be done best by the local beer of big famous breweries or just tasty 'life' beer of the small local beer makers. If you prefer wine and jazz, Vilnius will invite you to lots of cozy wineries, whose numbers have lately grown 'as mushrooms after the rain'.
Not enough adventures? Go and shake your body in a night club! A few years ago, lots of Vilnius dancing clubs caught fire with salsa and bachata. If you more interested in international music, just go to "Pabo Latino" where the best music is played by international and local DJ's, and dance till the sunrise. Various types of life music are always available in "Tamsta Club". Recently old factory places were resourcefully adapted into clubs. One of the most famous is "Loftas". Having nice performances including video-music installations, competitive playing by international and local DJ's and theatrical costume shows – it's always astonishing and crowded.
If you try to compare Vilnius night life with other cities, let’s say to Dubai’s – Vilnius wins with cozy atmosphere, where you can easily meet friends or even find a soulmate (who knows! :) Just come, enjoy and spread the news. We are waiting for you.
Daiva Taliūtė
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· Japan
· China
· India
Lithuania is "China's important trading partner in the Baltic Sea region," He Guoqiang, member of the Standing Committee of the Political Bureau of the CPC Central Committee and secretary of the CPC's Central Commission for Discipline Inspection, said during this meeting with Lithuanian Prime Minister Andrius Kubilius.
The agreements that are negotiated, or are under development, are highly significant and may give Lithuania a key position as a link between Asia and EU.
The agreements represent all win-win situations for bilateral relations between the three countries and Lithuania, since both sides have much to gain from the sort of bilateral cooperation that have been negotiated.
For Lithuania, these agreements are so important, economically, politically and with regard to growth in research, technology and communications, that they are likely to be perceived as a political boost for the incumbent government. The deals are simply so promising that they can get PM Kubilius re-elected in the parliamentary election this fall.
Among the news in the cooperation between the countries are worth mentioning:
- JAPAN: Cooperation for the construction of a new nuclear power plant in Visagino, and related technology transfer.
- CHINA: New rail connection from China to Klaipeda and on to Antwerp in Belgium, plus a brand new IT innovation centre at the University of Vilnius.
- INDIA: Lithuania as India's textile industry's gateway to the EU.
Aage Myhre
aage.myhre@VilNews.com
A handful interesting inks with regards to Lithuanian bilateral cooperation with:
· JAPAN
· CHINA 1
· CHINA 2
· INDIA
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Markas Zingeris
Photo: Džojos Barysaitės
Markas Zingeris interviewed by Diana Koval
Markas Zingeris - a well-known writer, poet, journalist and director of the Vilna Gaon Jewish State museum, in an interview by Vilnews, shared his thoughts on intolerance and anti-Semitism issues in today’s Lithuania.
Q. Anti-Semitic displays in modern-day Lithuania happen quite often. For example, last month someone hoisted up swastika flags on Tauro hill in Vilnius and hung a poster with anti-Semitic slogans near the Kaunas Jewish synagogue. Why do you think such events are happening now? Another question - whether the public or the government is too indifferent to such a phenomenon? The investigation of Petras Stankeras case was terminated due to lack of evidence. Doesn’t it show public aloofness?
M. Z. It shows the lack of determination among the lawyers, or lack of consensus on some really central issues. Personally, I think it is the serious gap in humanitarian education among members of the judiciary, politicians, journalists and the lack of in-depth understanding of history of the twentieth century. In general, it is the absence of common accepted views about the past in a society stuck in the crossroads between East and West, Past and the Future.
Holocaust was denied on the pages of the magazine “Veidas” and this is an offence by law. So somebody needs to take a responsibility and this is either the author of the article or the editors. Just stopping the case wouldn’t do.
Western societies have went to the present-day understanding of crimes of WWII, particularly the Holocaust, a long road, from the Eichmann trial in Jerusalem in the sixties and students revolt in Germany, when children started to put uneasy questions to their parents as to what the latter were doing and where they were serving during WW II. Meanwhile, the Communist regime here concealed the racist motives of Nazi crimes. Communists put the focus on the crimes against “Soviet people” or against people in general, but kept silent about the reasons of Hitler's anti-Semitism ideology. They have censored the works of art, such as Vasiliji Grossman’s epic novel “Life and Fate”: or Jevtushenko’s poem Babiji Yar. There were few exceptions, such as Icchokas Meras with his ghetto stories, but they could not replace the lack of systematic education of human rights and racism, and anti-Semitism. There were periods were anti-Semitism here was even endorsed by the State. So, people haven’t developed immunity to such phenomena.
Consequently, the older generation is unable to transmit the necessary knowledge to the young that educational institutions in the Western Europe have given to the modern day children. Our educational efforts in this direction are too recent and inconsequenial to affect the society on the grass-roots level. People mainly have a certain stereotypical understanding about the past and, also, fail to fully recognize what is happening in today's world.
Our press is not of much use in this. In my perception, a lack of education and a wider perception beyond the ethnocentric view and lack of analytical understanding of twentieth century realities are the reasons why the wheat isn’t being separated from the chaff quite often among the general readers of the mainstream press and, even more, among the general electorate.
Neo-Nazis are selling themselves as patriots to the mass-audience; they misuse the term patriotism, plant ersatz values and spread seeds of hate.
Again, a remark about the dire political consequences of the decisions by the judiciary, recently the court in Klaipeda decided that the swastika is a symbol of the Balts so the public display of it must be legal. So, congrats, dear judges, it was raised over Tauro Hill in Vilnius in the white circle of the full-blown III Reich flags. Why not any other archaeological excavations have been chosen as an ancient symbol of the Balts, but swastika?
Yes, swastikas are common among the archaeological excavations, yes, it is the symbol of the sun, and Hitler also believed that. But let’s de-camouflage it. It is just rhetoric used by contemporary neo-Nazi organizers. Besides, it looks like their patrons are the mainstream party “tautininkai”. Quite often nor our legal institutions, nor our politicians and journalists are able to point out their demagoguery, to drag this camouflage of “patriotism” away, although our public intellectuals were not misled.
We may eventually develop a serious illness of society, as Russia has it, where neo-Nazis and extremists march in orderly columns on various occasions and, as we here, they often turn into violent gangs. We’ve had already had here an attack on a movie-theatre were an anti-fascist film was shown. Unfortunately, without effective response this phenomenon will deepen, expand and we may have some Neo-Nazis taking Parliament seats in due time. I would add that the reaction of the Jewish community was provincial and helpless, at best. Therefore, we have a whole series of events that constitute a favorable ground for such an aggressive phenomenon.
Q. Do you think that some state politicians probably weren’t responsive enough?
M. Z. The ruling party responded with a statement. And I think that the decision was difficult to make, because the ruling party is a cross-party alliance formation. Though the President’s initial reaction was rather vague, later she responded with more determination. So has responded the Prime Minister. In general, the ruling echelon was aware, and some politicians realize that this may be a serious development problem of our society. Somebody must diagnose this phenomenon, which is spreading and becoming more aggressive. It seems to me, that delayed response to extremism encourages extremism. Historically, extremism grows when forces of mainstream or of opposing political camps stay fragmented and hesitant.
Q. Lithuania is a young country. Maybe it just needs more time to rise a new generation, guided by other values, and oriented towards the West?
M. Z. Thinking of it in the silence of my office, sure, that would be very nice. But life out there is different. Everything spreads and develops with the speed of light in the modern world – Arab revolutions, the economic crisis . . . There seems to be no sustainable development. The world evolves convulsively and it is difficult to forecast. 2 + 2 is not four, but, say, 9/11.
Q. In your opinion, what is needed for Lithuania to get on the right path?
M. Z. All this rhetoric is discredited and it seems impossible to have a monopoly on truth, because as I have said the world is changing rapidly. However, there are certain values that need to reach the minds and hearts of as many people as it is possible. Those values are moderation, openness to each other, to minorities and, of course, respect for human rights.
I’d value a belief that the embrace is a more fruitful position than is the self-defense boxing pose of the outdated worldview against the whole present-day world – the East and the West. These demonstrators on March 11 shouted: no to East, no to West. I would say, yes to East, and yes to West! It is better to take everything that is best from everywhere. But indeed a well-educated generation and wise politicians are necessary. And I’ll just share with you some pipe-dreams, if I start writing prescriptions, so I wouldn’t do that. I think what is urgently needed is the political maturity of Lithuania as well as a strong middle class. Unfortunately, these things do not come all-at-once.
Q. Do you have something to tell, that I possibly haven’t asked?
M. Z. It seems to me at this time, there should be announced a kind of State of emergency in education, which would wisely educate intolerance to intolerance. Writers, intellectuals also should regain lost positions in society. Indeed, intellect is completely undervalued in Lithuania. Society should have supported achievements of their intellectuals and future potential Nobel laureates, as enthusiastically as it is supporting its basketball players. In response, there could be a response in a shape of a counterdemonstration in the very center of Vilnius, which was conceded so proudly by Municipality clerks to the radicals on 11 March. A counterdemonstration with completely contrary slogans, wise and peaceful, and a much forceful demonstration at that - this should be an adequate response.
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PM Kubilius welcomes Gazprom as investor in Lithuanian gas supply!
Lithuania, in unbundling the monopolies in the gas market, will let in Russian gas giant Gazprom to partly participate in the management of the country's gas-main (the large pipeline in which gas is carried for distribution through smaller pipes to consumers).
As Lithuanian Prime Minister Andrius Kubilius puts it, the company is a very important strategic partner and it is interested in gas transit to Kaliningrad region. Kubilius said that Gazprom would be just a financial investor, reports LETA/ELTA.
"Gazprom remains a very important strategic partner and it is absolutely natural that the company is concerned about the so called gas transit to Kaliningrad region. I personally do not see anything wrong in that. Gazprom would be just a financial investor without a final say as Lithuania would the one holding such right, there is nothing to worry about," the PM said to the radio Ziniu Radijas in a telephone interview from Stockholm.
The PM said that such provision of Gazprom being solely a financial investor and not having a casting vote in voting is outlined in Lithuania's letter which was handed in to Gazprom Export's Director General Alexander Medvedev during his visit to Vilnius Tuesday.
Kubilius reiterated that Lithuania must implement the EU Third Energy Package directive by the end of 2014.
During the meeting with Medvedev, Kubilius said that Gazprom could partly take part in the management of Lithuanian gas-main in the future.
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The Polish-Lithuanian
War 1919-1920
A series of articles in 4 parts
By Vincas Karnila, Associate editor
vin.karnila@VilNews.com
South-eastern Lithuania, Vilnius included, was occupied by Poland during the interwar period. Picture: Celebration of the incorporation of Vilnius Region to Poland, 1922.
The Polish–Lithuanian War was an armed conflict between Lithuania and Poland in the aftermath of World War I and Lithuania's declaration of independence 16 February 1918.
The conflict primarily concerned territorial control of the Vilnius Region, including Vilnius, and the Suwałki Region, including the towns of Suwałki, Augustów, and Sejny. According to Lithuanian historians, the war was part of the Lithuanian Wars of Independence and spanned from spring 1919 to November 1920. According to Poland, the war included only fighting over the Suwałki Region in September–October 1920 and was part of the Polish–Soviet War.
After Vilnius was occupied by the Russian Bolsheviks in 1919, the government of the Republic of Lithuania established its main base in Kaunas. When Vilnius was forcibly annexed by Poland, Kaunas became the temporary capital of Lithuania, a position it held until 28 October 1939, when the Red Army handed Vilnius back to Lithuania. The Constituent Assembly of Lithuania first met in Kaunas on 15 May 1920. There were no diplomatic relations between Poland and Lithuania until 1938.
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Part 1:
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Part 2:
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Part 3:
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Part 4:
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The Polish-Lithuanian
War 1919-1920
Part 4 of 4 - The AFTERMATH
A satirical picture from interwar Polish press (around 1925-1935): a caricature of Marshal Józef Piłsudski and Lithuania, criticizing Lithuanian unwillingness to compromise over Vilnius region. Marshal Piłsudski offers the meat labeled "agreement" to the dog (with the collar labelled Lithuania); the dog barking
"Wilno, wilno, wilno" replies: "Even if you were to give me Wilno, I would
bark for Grodno and Białystok, because this is who I am."
Su pagarbe Vincas Karnila, Associate editor
vin.karnila@VilNews.com
In March 1921, the plans for a referendum vote were abandoned. Neither Lithuania, which was afraid of a negative result, nor Poland, which saw no reason to change status quo, wanted it. The parties could not agree in which territory to carry out the vote and how Żeligowski's forces should be replaced by the League's forces. The League of Nations then moved on from trying to solve the narrow territorial dispute in the Vilnius Region to shaping the fundamental relationship between Poland and Lithuania. During 1921, Belgian Paul Hymans suggested several Polish–Lithuanian federation models but all were rejected by both sides.
READ TODAY’S ARTICLE – PART 4 OF 4
To read previous articles – GO TO OUR SECTION 10
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The Polish-Lithuanian
War 1919-1920
Part 4 of 4 – The AFTERMATH
A satirical picture from interwar Polish press (around 1925-1935): a caricature of Marshal Józef Piłsudski and Lithuania, criticizing Lithuanian unwillingness to compromise over Vilnius region. Marshal Piłsudski offers the meat labeled "agreement" to the dog (with the collar labelled Lithuania); the dog barking "Wilno, wilno, wilno" replies: "Even if you were to give me Wilno, I would bark for Grodno and Białystok, because this is who I am."
Su pagarbe Vincas Karnila, Associate editor
vin.karnila@VilNews.com
In March 1921, the plans for a referendum vote were abandoned. Neither Lithuania, which was afraid of a negative result, nor Poland, which saw no reason to change status quo, wanted it. The parties could not agree in which territory to carry out the vote and how Żeligowski's forces should be replaced by the League's forces. The League of Nations then moved on from trying to solve the narrow territorial dispute in the Vilnius Region to shaping the fundamental relationship between Poland and Lithuania. During 1921, Belgian Paul Hymans suggested several Polish–Lithuanian federation models but all were rejected by both sides.
The general election in the (Polish) Republic of Central Lithuania was an election to the Vilnius Sejm (parliament) of the Polish-dominated Republic of Central Lithuania on January 8, 1922. The new parliament was intended to formally legalize incorporation of Central Lithuania into Poland. Such a measure was fiercely opposed by Lithuania, which claimed the territory for itself. The election was boycotted by non-Polish minorities and its results were unrecognized by the Lithuanian government in Kaunas and the League of Nations. The elected parliament convened in February 1922 and, as expected, voted to incorporate the Republic into Poland. Poland’s parliament accepted the resolution of the Diet and at the end of March 1922 Central Lithuania became Wilno Voivodeship of the Second Polish Republic. The League of Nations ended its efforts to mediate the dispute.
After Lithuania seized the Klaipėda Region, from Germany, in January 1923, the League saw recognition of Lithuanian interest in Klaipėda as adequate compensation for the loss of Vilnius. The League accepted the status quo in February 1923 by dividing the neutral zone and setting a demarcation line, which was recognized in March 1923 as the official Polish–Lithuanian border. Lithuania did not recognize this border.
The dispute over Vilnius remained one of the biggest foreign policy issues in Lithuania and Poland. Lithuania broke off all diplomatic relations with Poland and refused any actions that would recognize Poland's control of Vilnius even de facto. For example, Lithuania broke off diplomatic relations with the Holy See after the Concordat of 1925 established an ecclesiastical province in Wilno thereby acknowledging Poland's claims to the city. Poland refused to formally recognize the existence of any dispute regarding the region, since that would have lent legitimacy to the Lithuanian claims. Railroad traffic and telegraph lines could not cross the border, and mail service was complicated. For example, a letter from Poland to Lithuania needed to be sent to a neutral country, repackaged in a new envelope to remove any Polish signs, and only then delivered to Lithuania. Despite several attempts to normalize the relations, the situation of "no war, no peace" lasted until Poland demanded to reestablish diplomatic relations by issuing the ultimatum of 1938.
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“Independent Lithuania cannot exist by itself” In April, 1918 Pope Bededict XV appointed Archbishop Achilles Ratti (later Pope Pius XI) as apostolic visitator to Poland and “ex Russian countries”, including Lithuania. Lithuanian – Polish relations became especially tense because of incorporation of Vilnius region into Poland. In 1921 apostolic visitator and delegate Rev. Antonio Zechini arrived in Kaunas. He publicly expressed the opinion that independent Lithuania could not exist by itself. Msgr. Zechini counseled Lithuanians to unite with Poles as they had done previously. On November 10, 1922 Vatican recognized independent Lithuania de jure. After the death of Pope Benedict XV Msgr. Antonio Zechini became Archbishop and apostolic delegate for the three Baltic nations. He did not favor the idea of a separate Lithuanian ecclesiastical province. On February 10, 1925 the Concordat was concluded between the Holy See and Poland. The Vilnius (Wilna) question was of the utmost importance to Lithuanians. The Polish Concordat did not undertake to decide the issue of territorial boundaries between Poland and Lithuania, but merely recognized a political de facto situation. Vilnius (Wilna), the ancient Lithuanian capital, was raised to the rank of archdiocese and made one of the five Polish ecclesiastical provinces. Polish Concordat caused great dissatisfaction among Lithuanian population. The situation became so acute that Archbishop Zechini departed for Riga without obtaining permission to return. The tempest was heightened by the news that Lithuanian bishop of Vilnius Jurgis Matulaitis (beatified 1987 by Pope John Paul II; Polish transcription: Jerzy Matulewicz) was forced to leave his See and departed for Rome.
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In April, 1918 Pope Bededict XV appointed Archbishop Achilles Ratti (later Pope Pius XI) as apostolic visitator to Poland and “ex Russian countries”, including Lithuania. In 1921 apostolic visitator and delegate Rev. Antonio Zechini arrived in Kaunas. He publicly expressed the opinion that independent Lithuania could not exist by itself. Lithuania broke off diplomatic relations with the Holy See after the Concordat of 1925 established an ecclesiastical province in Wilno thereby acknowledging Poland's claims to the city. |
1938 POLISH ULTIMATUM to LITHUANIA
The 1938 Polish Ultimatum to Lithuania was an ultimatum delivered to Lithuania by Poland on March 17, 1938. The Lithuanian government had steadfastly refused to have any diplomatic relations with Poland after 1920, protesting the annexation by Poland of the Vilnius Region. As pre-World War II tensions in Europe intensified, Poland perceived the need to secure its northern borders. Five days earlier, Poland, feeling supported by international recognition of the annexation of Austria by Nazi Germany, decided it was imperative to deliver an ultimatum to Lithuania. The ultimatum demanded that the Lithuanian government unconditionally agree to establish diplomatic relations with Warsaw within 48 hours, and that the terms be finalized before March 31. The establishment of diplomatic relations would mean a de facto renunciation of Lithuanian claims to the region containing its historic capital, Vilnius (known in Polish as Wilno). Lithuania, preferring peace to war, accepted the ultimatum on March 19. Although diplomatic relations were established as a result of the ultimatum, Lithuania did not agree to recognize, in a legal sense or otherwise, the loss of Vilnius. The government of Poland made a similar move against the Czechoslovakian government in Prague on September 30, 1938, when it took advantage of the Sudeten Crisis, created by Nazi Germany, to demand a portion of and later annex Zaolzie. On both occasions, Poland used the international crises to address long-standing border disputes and to counter Germany's foreign policy initiatives.
INITIAL VERSION
The first version of the ultimatum, as drafted by Edward Rydz-Śmigły, Prime Minister Felicjan Slawoj Skladkowski, and Jan Szembek, contained six demands.
Edward Rydz-Śmigły Felicjan Slawoj Skladkowski Jan Szembek
1. Establish normal diplomatic and consular relations with Poland
2. Allow normal railway and road traffic and direct telephone and telegraph lines across the demarcation line
3. Amend the Lithuanian constitution to acknowledge that Vilnius was no longer the capital of Lithuania
4. Conclude the convention protecting the rights of the Polish minority in Lithuania in full
5. Conclude a trade and tariff agreement
6. Fully investigate the incident in Trasnykai
The Polish Foreign Minister Józef Beck, who had just returned from a trip to Sorrento, called for a government meeting on the night of March 16. During the meeting he argued that the ultimatum needed to contain only one demand - The establishment of diplomatic relations. In his view, such an ultimatum would not have violated any genuine Lithuanian interests and would offer much improved prospects for a peaceful resolution of the conflict and a speedy relief of tensions. It was in accordance with Beck's vision for Eastern Europe, which was based on a Warsaw dominated Polish–Baltic–Scandinavian bloc free of Soviet or German influence, a modified version of Jozef Pilsudski’s Miedzymorze plan, which required the normalization of relations with Lithuania. The removal of the other demands also reflected political pressure on Poland from the Soviet Union, France, and the United Kingdom to prevent the conflict from escalating into warfare.
Józef Beck.
The Polish government agreed to Beck's proposal and the ultimatum was toned down. However, at the same time, Beck ordered military preparations. Poland assembled four divisions along the demarcation line which totaled about 50,000 Polish troops compared to just over 20,000 Lithuanian troops. The Polish troops were reinforced by armored vehicles, by two air force regiments consisting of about one hundred aircraft and by the Polish fleet in the waters of the Baltic Sea along the Lithuanian shore.
THE ULTIMATUM
The final text of the ultimatum, completed by Józef Beck and delivered through a Polish envoy in Tallinn to Bronius Dailidė, the Lithuanian ambassador in Estonia, was as follows:
1. "The proposition of the Lithuanian Government of March 14 cannot be accepted for it does not give sufficient guarantees concerning the security of the frontier in view of the negative results of all Polish–Lithuanian negotiations made up to the present time."
2. "For this reason the Polish Government declares that it considers as the only solution corresponding to the gravity of the situation the immediate establishment of normal diplomatic relations without any previous condition. This is the only way to regulate the neighborly questions for a Government animated by good faith to avoid events dangerous to peace."
3. "The Polish Government allows the Lithuanian Government 48 hours from the moment the note is presented for the acceptance of this proposition in making it known that diplomatic representations at Kaunas and Warsaw will be accredited not later than March 31 of this year. Until that date all discussions of a technical or other character between the Polish and Lithuanian Governments shall be continued by the envoys extraordinary and ministers plenipotentiary at Tallinn.
The exchange of notes attached concerning the establishment of diplomatic relations shall take place, before the expiration of the period of 48 hours mentioned, at Tallinn between the Polish and Lithuanian Ministers at Tallinn."
4. "The proposition above mentioned will not be the subject of discussion with regard to its content or form—it is an unchangeable proposition.
The failure to respond or the presentation of any supplements or reservations shall be considered by the Polish Government as a refusal. In the event of a negative reply the Polish Government will guarantee the just interest of the state by its proper means."
The ultimatum contained an attachment which was a draft of what would be deemed an acceptable response to the ultimatum. The proposed response stated only that Lithuania agreed to establish regular diplomatic relations, send a legation to Warsaw, and guarantee normal conditions of operation for a Polish legation in Kaunas.
These tensions were one of the reasons why Jozef Pilsudski’s Miedzymorze planed federation was never formed. Ultimately the Soviet Union returned Vilnius to Lithuania after the Soviet invasion of Eastern Poland in September 1939.
IN RETROSPECT
Historians have speculated that if was it not for Poland’s involvement in the Polish-Soviet War, Lithuania would have been invaded by the Soviets and would never have experienced two decades of independence despite the Soviet-Lithuanian Treaty of 1920. Other historians have countered that due to countries such as Latvia and Lithuania engaging in their own wars against the Soviets, during this time period, it resulted in Poland not having to deal with the might of the entire Soviet force which, helped in their success repelling the Soviet’s invasion.
It is felt by many that the Russian hostilities in this area of Europe, at this time, set the stage for the diplomatic efforts of Poland and Lithuania, to resolve their issues, to break down and escalate into open warfare. While what would have happened if Lithuania and Poland were not involved in open warfare with the Russia will never be known. Personally I would like to believe that if peace had been in the area, the two neighbors would have found some peaceful way to work things out between them. In looking back at this time in history I find it very sad that two countries that had such a strong bond between them for hundreds of years would ultimately find themselves at war with each other. It is especially sad since it was the bond between these two countries that help keep peace in this area for hundreds of years. If you attacked Poland you had to be prepared to also take on Lithuania. If you attacked Lithuania you had to be prepared to also take on Poland. This was something a prospective enemy had to contend with and this bond of two friends most likely discouraged many a hostile force from embarking on any campaign to break the peace in this area. This is why the Polish – Lithuanian War is a very sad part of history for both countries. Two friends that once supported, defended and protected each other were now at war with each other – Very sad indeed.
The dispute over the borders of the two countries is something to be considered and both countries believed that they had just cause to contest this issue. During the period of the Polish–Lithuanian union from 1385 until 1569 and then the period of the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth from 1569 until 1795, the borders of the two neighbors were clearly defined and for the most part remained intact. There was a very definite line that identified where the Polish land was and where the Lithuanian land was and both sides seemed quite happy with this.
This unfortunately all came to an end in 1795. What now began was the period of Lithuania and Poland being carved up, sliced up and divided up by a long list of larger and more powerful countries. This ongoing rearranging of the Polish/Lithuanian border continued from 1795 to post World War I. Without going into all the fine detail of whose pre 1795 land was now within whose border, I’m sure you can imagine what a complete mess this was and what kind of challenge it would have been to restore the border to where it was in 1795.
The pre 1795 Polish/Lithuanian border compared with the border as it was at the end of World War I gave both sides with a very difficult situation to resolve and as I have said before, both sides felt that they had very justifiable claims. Aside from the contested cities, towns and villages in the pre 1795 border area there is one point of contention that, I must admit, I have had a very difficult time of understanding and making any justifiable sense of for many of year. This is in regards to Vilnius and the Vilnius area. Ever since there was a Poland and ever since there was a Lithuania and ever since there was a Vilnius and ever since there was a Polish/Lithuanian border, Vilnius and the Vilnius area had always been well within the boundaries of Lithuania.
Polish–Lithuanian union 1466.
When countries are at war with each other, capturing and occupying their opponent’s capital is most always a prime objective. In this regard I can fully understand Poland’s efforts to capture Vilnius. What I have had a very difficult time of understanding and making any justifiable sense of for many of year is Poland’s reasoning as justification in not only capturing Vilnius but also occupying it for twenty years. In anything I have ever read or heard regarding this, the only point of reasoning I have ever been able to decipher is that since there was a large percentage of the Vilnius population that were Polish citizens or of Polish nationality then this meant that Vilnius belonged to Poland. Not only with Vilnius but in many other towns and villages that had been within the pre 1795 border of Lithuania, Poland’s claim as to why these towns and villages should be a part of Poland was that there was a large percentage of the population that were Polish citizens or of Polish nationality.
Map showing the greatest extent of the borders of both Poland and the Grand Duchy of Lithuania,
The Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth.
KIND OF SAD ISN’T IT?
Now some might say that the only reason I have a difficult time of understanding and accepting this logic is because I am Lithuanian. To these people I would have to respectfully disagree. It is not about a Lithuanian – Polish issue. It is an issue about honoring the sovereignty of another country. I am not from Estonia but I would react with great shock and emotion if one day Russia announced that they were going to invade and annex the north-eastern part of Estonia and try to justify it by saying it is because there are many Russian citizens and people of Russian nationality live in this area. I would react with the same shock and emotion if Russia announced that they were going to invade and annex all of Latvia and try to justify this by citing not only how many people of Russian nationality live there but also how many people speak Russian there as their first language. I could go on and on with this logic. If this was an issue that was simply a part of history and had been long since resolved and forgotten about perhaps I would not still be trying ever so desperately to understand the logic but to this day there are people that will look you right in the eye and say that Vilnius is a part of Poland.
Assembling all the information for this series of articles was interesting but I must also say a bit depressing. This is sad a story about two friends being at war with each other. The Polish – Lithuanian bond of 1385 to 1795 was one of the, if not the, longest bonds of friendship in all of Europe. This bond also resulted in one of the greatest forces in all the history of Europe, something that undoubtedly resulted in many years of peace in this area.
As you all know, there are still issues between the two friends. While some of these issues are quite serious, to the extent that the EU has needed to step in and referee, some of these issues are not that serious but there are people out there that like to throw these smaller issues in with the big ones just to make the big issues even MORE serious. Personally it is my greatest hope that these issues can be resolved – SOON!!! It would be nice to get the two friends back together again and they would both be much better for it and the EU would be better for it.
One final thought – Often when I am in Druskininkai (one of my favorite places), since of its close proximity to Poland, I often end up talking with some people visiting from Poland. Trying to always be somewhat of a friendly person I’ll usually offer up a greeting or some pleasantry and since Druskinikai has a warm and friendly atmosphere about it this often results in a pleasant conversation. Since I speak very little Polish and often they speak very little Lithuanian, if they speak English we are able to have a very nice extended conversation - Even if they don’t speak English we both do everything we can to communicate and exchange pleasantries. After these very pleasant conversations, no matter how long or how short, I always wonder why it is that a Lithuanian and some people from Poland, who are perfect strangers to each other, can sit down and have such a warm and friendly conversation but our two countries are having such a difficult time getting along???
But, I guess that’s how things have always been and perhaps always will be with the peoples of many countries –
Kind of sad isn’t it?
Su pagarbe and Dziękujemy i pozdrawiamy
Vincas Karnila
Associate editor
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Boris Yeltsin, Russia’s former leader who successfully fought communism but not the bottle. Are Lithuanian bureaucrats following his example?
Several employees of a Lithuanian authority were caught partying wildly in a drunken state during working hours on Thursday. Lithuanian journalist reflects on the alcohol issues of his country’s bureaucrats in an article published on February 6.
Alcoholism is widespread among bureaucrats and is eating away at the state, the daily Vilniaus Diena writes: “One may well be surprised at the combination of drinking and democracy, but not in the case of bureaucrats with their butts stuck to their seats… Institutional alcohol consumption is a glaring problem here in Lithuania but for decades there have been efforts to hide the fact.
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Lithuania and Poland successfully discuss bilateral cooperation in EU matters
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A successful partnership! Polish Secretary of State for European Affairs Mikołaj Dowgielewicz and Lithuanian Vice-Minister of Foreign Affairs Egidijus Meilunas.
WARSAW - On Feb. 2 in Warsaw, Lithuanian Vice-Minister of Foreign Affairs Egidijus Meilunas and Polish Secretary of State for European Affairs Mikołaj Dowgielewicz discussed bilateral cooperation in EU matters, Lithuania’s preparation for the Presidency of the Council of the EU in 2013.
The Lithuanian-Polish partnership in this area is assessed as very successful, especially consultations on the issues that are important for both countries, including the discussion on the EU Financial Framework 2014-2020.
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“Independent Lithuania cannot exist by itself”
(public opinion of the Vatican’s representative in 1921)
POPE PIUS XI
In April, 1918 Pope Bededict XV appointed Archbishop Achilles Ratti (later Pope Pius XI) as apostolic visitator to Poland and “ex Russian countries”, including Lithuania.
In 1921 apostolic visitator and delegate Rev. Antonio Zechini arrived in Kaunas.
He publicly expressed the opinion that independent Lithuania could not exist by
itself. Lithuania broke off diplomatic relations with the Holy See after the
Concordat of 1925 established an ecclesiastical province in Wilno
thereby acknowledging Poland's claims to the city.
In April, 1918 Pope Bededict XV appointed Archbishop Achilles Ratti (later Pope Pius XI) as apostolic visitator to Poland and “ex Russian countries”, including Lithuania. Lithuanian – Polish relations became especially tense because of incorporation of Vilnius region into Poland. In 1921 apostolic visitator and delegate Rev. Antonio Zechini arrived in Kaunas. He publicly expressed the opinion that independent Lithuania could not exist by itself. Msgr. Zechini counseled Lithuanians to unite with Poles as they had done previously. On November 10, 1922 Vatican recognized independent Lithuania de jure. After the death of Pope Benedict XV Msgr. Antonio Zechini became Archbishop and apostolic delegate for the three Baltic nations. He did not favor the idea of a separate Lithuanian ecclesiastical province. On February 10, 1925 the Concordat was concluded between the Holy See and Poland. The Vilnius (Wilna) question was of the utmost importance to Lithuanians. The Polish Concordat did not undertake to decide the issue of territorial boundaries between Poland and Lithuania, but merely recognized a political de facto situation. Vilnius (Wilna), the ancient Lithuanian capital, was raised to the rank of archdiocese and made one of the five Polish ecclesiastical provinces. Polish Concordat caused great dissatisfaction among Lithuanian population. The situation became so acute that Archbishop Zechini departed for Riga without obtaining permission to return. The tempest was heightened by the news that Lithuanian bishop of Vilnius Jurgis Matulaitis (beatified 1987 by Pope John Paul II; Polish transcription: Jerzy Matulewicz) was forced to leave his See and departed for Rome.
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OPINIONS
Have your say. Send to:
editor@VilNews.com
Ph. D., Chicago
A wave of unity sweeps the international Lithuanian community on March 11th every year as Lithuanians celebrated the anniversary of the Lithuanian Parliament's declaration of independence from the Soviet Union in 1990. However, the sense of national unity engendered by the celebration could be short-lived.
Human beings have a strong tendency to overgeneralize and succumb to stereotypical us-them distinctions that can shatter even the strongest bonds. We need only search the internet to find examples of divisive thinking at work:
- "Those who fled Lithuania during World II were cowards -- and now they come back, flaunt their wealth, and tell us 'true Lithuanians' how to live."
- "Lithuanians who work abroad have abandoned their homeland and should be deprived of their Lithuanian citizenship."
In Lithuania Christmas Eve is a family event and the New Year's Eve a great party with friends!
Lithuanian say "Kaip sutiksi naujus metus, taip juos ir praleisi" (the way you'll meet the new year is the way you will spend it). So everyone is trying to spend New Year's Eve with friend and have as much fun as possible.
Lithuanian New Year's traditions are very similar to those in other countries, and actually were similar since many years ago. Also, the traditional Lithuanian New Years Eve party was very similar to other big celebrations throughout the year.
The New Year's Eve table is quite similar to the Christmas Eve table, but without straws under the tablecloth, and now including meat dishes. A tradition that definitely hasn't changes is that everybody is trying not to fell asleep before midnight. It was said that if you oversleep the midnight point you will be lazy all the upcoming year. People were also trying to get up early on the first day of the new year, because waking up late also meant a very lazy and unfortunate year.
During the New Year celebration people were dancing, singing, playing games and doing magic to guess the future. People didn't drink much of alcohol, especially was that the case for women.
Here are some advices from elders:
- During the New Year, be very nice and listen to relatives - what you are during New Year Eve, you will be throughout the year.
- During to the New Year Eve, try not to fall, because if this happens, next year you will be unhappy.
- If in the start of the New Year, the first news are good - then the year will be successful. If not - the year will be problematic.
* If New Year's night is cold and starry - look forward to a good summer!
* If the during New Year Eve trees are covered with frost - then it will be a good year. If it is wet weather on New Year's Eve, one can expect a year where many will die and dangerous epidemics occur.
* If the first day of the new year is snowy - the upcoming year will see many young people die. If the night is snowy - mostly old people will die.
* If the New Year time is cold - then Easter will be warm.
* If during New Year there are a lot of birds in your homestead - then all year around there will be many guests and the year will be fun.
Christmas greetings
from Vilnius
and epic battle for the
future
Philosopher, political theorist, historian of
ideas, social analyst, and political
commentator
Ukraine was and continues to be perceived by the EU political class as a sort of grey zone with its immense potential and possibilities for the future, yet deeply embedded and trapped in No Man's Land with all of its troubled past, post-Soviet traumas, ambiguities, insecurities, corruption, social divisions, and despair. Why worry for what has yet to emerge as a new actor of world history in terms of nation-building, European identity, and deeper commitments to transparency and free market economy?
Right? Wrong. No matter how troubled Ukraine's economic and political reality could be, the country has already passed the point of no return. Even if Vladimir Putin retains his leverage of power to blackmail Ukraine and the West in terms of Ukraine's zero chances to accede to NATO due to the problems of territorial integrity, occupation and annexation of Crimea, and mayhem or a frozen conflict in the Donbas region, Ukraine will never return to Russia's zone of influence. It could be deprived of the chances to join NATO or the EU in the coming years or decades, yet there are no forces on earth to make present Ukraine part of the Eurasia project fostered by Putin.
want to learn about the
new, scary propaganda
war between Russia,
The West and the
Baltic States!
believe their government
is corrupt
students say no to
bribes for doctors
During Soviet times, government was administered for the people in control, not for the local population, court decisions were decreed, they were not the administration of justice, and academia was the domain of ideologues. 25 years of freedom and openness should have put those bad experiences behind Lithuania, but that is not so.
Today, it is a matter of expectation that court pronouncements will be governed by ideological dictates. Few, if any Lithuanians expect real justice to be effected. For foreign companies, doing business in Lithuania is almost impossible in a situation where business people do not expect rule of law, so, surely Government would be a refuge of competence?
Lithuanian Government has not emerged from Soviet styles. In an attempt to devolve power, Lithuania has created a myriad of fiefdoms of power, each speaking in the name of the Government, each its own centralized power base of ideology.
Chepstow, Wales
Doesn't that sound suspiciously like Lithuania? Ah, but I didn't mention the mountains of Snowdonia, which would give the game away.
I'm talking about Wales, that part of the UK which Lithuanians used to call "Valija", but later named "Velsas" (why?). Wales, the nation which has welcomed two Lithuanian heads of state to its shores - firstly Professor Vytautas Landsbergis, who has paid several visits and, more recently, President Dalia Grybauskaitė who attended the 2014 NATO summit which was held in Newport, South Wales.
ENGLISH VERSION OF THE
AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF VYTAUTAS LANDSBERGIS.
Although Lithuanian activities have thinned over the decades as that postwar generation died out, the Lithuanian Martyrs' parish hall is crowded with many, many hundreds of visitors who come to the Lithuanian cemetery for All Souls' Day. Similarly, the Franciscan parish has standing room only for Christmas Eve mass.
Although I am firmly embedded in the literary culture of Canada, my themes are usually Lithuanian, and I'll be in Kaunas and Vilnius in mid-November 2015 to give talks about the Lithuanian translations of my novels and short stories, which I write in English.
If you have the Lithuanian language, come by to one of the talks listed in the links below. And if you don't, you can read more about my work at
www.anatanassileika.com
http://www.vdu.lt/lt/rasytojas-antanas-sileika-pristatys-savo-kuryba/ https://leu.lt/lt/lf/lf_naujienos/kvieciame-i-rasytojo-59hc.html
"My love and best wishes to all. As long as VilNews exists, there is hope for the future,"" she writes.
Irena Veisaite means very much for our publication, and we do hereby thank her for the support and wise commitment she always shows.
You can read our interview with her
Facing a new reality
Dear readers of VilNews,
For a number of years, the EU and Russia had assumed the existence of a strategic partnership, based on the convergence of values, economic integration and increasingly open markets and a modernisation agenda for society.
Our agenda was positive and ambitious. We looked at Russia as a country ready to converge with "European values", a country likely to embrace both the basic principles of democratic government and a liberal concept of the world order. It was believed this would bring our relations to a new level, covering the whole spectrum of the EU's strategic relationship with Russia.
The likelihood of Putin
invading Lithuania
.jpg "lithuania today")
Founding Director at Summer Literary Seminars
Are all Lithuanian energy
problems now resolved?
Lithuania as a country does not have significant energy resources. Energy consuming infrastructure after WWII was small and totally supported by energy imports from Russia.
First nuclear reactor begins power generation at Ignalina in 1983, the second reactor in 1987. Iganlina generates enough electricity to cover Lithuania's needs and about 50%.for export. As, prerequisite for membership in EU, Ignalina ceases all nuclear power generation in 2009
The Klaipėda Sea terminal begins Russia's oil export operations in 1959 and imports in 1994.
Mazeikiu Nafta (current ORLEAN Lietuva) begins operation of oil refinery in 1980.
Have Lithuanian ties across
the Baltic Sea become
stronger in recent years?
The two decades that have passed since regaining Lithuania's independence can be described as a "building boom". From the wreckage of a captive Soviet republic, a generation of Lithuanians have built a modern European state, and are now helping construct a Nordic-Baltic community replete with institutions intended to promote political coordination and foster a trans-Baltic regional identity. Indeed, a "Nordic-Baltic community" - I will explain later in my text the meaning of this catch-phrase.
Since the restoration of Lithuania's independence 25 years ago, we have continuously felt a strong support from Nordic countries. Nordics in particular were among the countries supporting Lithuania's and Baltic States' striving towards independence. Take example of Iceland, country which recognized Lithuania in February of 1991, well in advance of other countries. Yet another example - Swedish Ambassador was the first ambassador accredited to Lithuania in 1991. The other countries followed suit. When we restored our statehood, Nordic Countries became champions in promoting Baltic integration into Euro-Atlantic institutions. To large degree thanks Nordic Countries, massive transformations occurred in Lithuania since then, Lithuania became fully-fledged member of the EU and NATO, and we joined the Eurozone on 1 January 2015.
Have you heard about the
South African "Pencil Test"?
But that is exactly what happened to me when I came back from South Africa. I will tell you how.
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